The next generation of alternative protein is on a mission to capture the attention of meat eaters and plant lovers alike.
Meeting the New Meats
08.24.2021
As supermarkets stock their shelves with veggie burgers, chickenless nuggets, and pseudo sausages, we found ourselves wondering how the imitations stack up against the real deal. To find out, our team taste-tested nearly 30 of the alternative protein industry’s favorite brands—all in one afternoon.
From a lifelong omnivore to a curious flexitarian to a committed vegan, our judges brought a variety of perspectives to the table:
Adam Weiss
Landscape Founder, Executive Creative Director
Meat Lover
“I love meat, but our relationship is getting a little complicated. With age comes perspective, and I’ve become more aware of the impact that my decisions make on the world around me. I enjoy a good burger, but I also want my daughters to have a sustainable world to live in.”
Jessica Katona
Creative Director
13 Years Vegan
“I grew up eating meat and I never questioned it until I began to cook for myself in college,” recalled Jessica. “That’s when I realized that I want the food I put into my body to align with my values. When I considered the relationship between the food I was eating and its impact on animals, the environment, and my health, it was a no-brainer. I’ve been vegan for over 13 years now.”
Adam Weiss
“I love meat, but our relationship is getting a little complicated. With age comes perspective, and I’ve become more aware of the impact that my decisions make on the world around me. I enjoy a good burger, but I also want my daughters to have a sustainable world to live in.”
Jessica Katona
“I grew up eating meat and I never questioned it until I began to cook for myself in college,” recalled Jessica. “That’s when I realized that I want the food I put into my body to align with my values. When I considered the relationship between the food I was eating and its impact on animals, the environment, and my health, it was a no-brainer. I’ve been vegan for over 13 years now.”
Meat and I were never truly in love,” explained Frank. “I always preferred it fat-free, grilled, and without any eyes staring back at me. But, I’m a curious eater, so I’ve tried a lot of different diets throughout my lifetime. These days, I’m looking for food that makes me feel good at every level. If it tastes great and makes sense, I’m in.
Frank H. Vial
Strategy Director
Wellbeing enthusiast and inspired vegetarian
“Meat and I were never truly in love,” explained Frank. “I always preferred it fat-free, grilled, and without any eyes staring back at me. But, I’m a curious eater, so I’ve tried a lot of different diets throughout my lifetime. These days, I’m looking for food that makes me feel good at every level. If it tastes great and makes sense, I’m in.”
Marie LaLonde
Copywriter and Strategist
Casual eater in search of feel-good foods
“When I was a kid, I was taught that milk makes your bones strong, carrots help you see better, and meat is an essential part of a healthy diet,” said Marie. “Now that I’ve learned that protein can be found in a variety of different foods, I’m having fun looking for new ways to replace meat.”
Some skeptical, others hopeful, and all hungry, we headed to the kitchen. There, each product was evaluated based on its taste, texture, smell, and appearance.
“Meat and I were never truly in love,” explained Frank. “I always preferred it fat-free, grilled, and without any eyes staring back at me. But, I’m a curious eater, so I’ve tried a lot of different diets throughout my lifetime. These days, I’m looking for food that makes me feel good at every level. If it tastes great and makes sense, I’m in.”
Marie LaLonde
“When I was a kid, I was taught that milk makes your bones strong, carrots help you see better, and meat is an essential part of a healthy diet,” said Marie. “Now that I’ve learned that protein can be found in a variety of different foods, I’m having fun looking for new ways to replace meat.”
Some skeptical, others hopeful, and all hungry, we headed to the kitchen. There, each product was evaluated based on its taste, texture, smell, and appearance.
That’s when I realized that I want the food I put into my body to align with my values. When I considered the relationship between the food I was eating and its impact on animals, the environment, and my health, it was a no-brainer. I’ve been vegan for over 13 years now.
Jessica Katona, Creative Director
“Chicken”
On the table: Gardein, Quorn, Simulate, Daring
We started with chicken. Under the careful supervision of Jessica and Marie, these nuggets were out of the oven in under 15 minutes. Crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, the batch was surprisingly convincing.
Uniform in shape and light in color, Gardein’s nuggets featured visible pieces of oats and quinoa. In contrast, Simulate’s iconic “NUGGS” took on the familiar quality of a fast-food nugget. Daring’s nuggets looked more like strips and Quorn’s were spotted in seasoning.
While Daring and Gardein weren’t bad, Simulate and Quorn made for a spot-on substitute of our favorite childhood snack.
“These are pretty good,” said Marie. “Chicken nuggets were an after-school staple when I was growing up, and these plant-based alternatives take me back to those moments. Sometimes, the best part about food is the feeling it gives you.”
Our favorite: Simulate
Tip: Don’t skip the sauce
On the table: Gardein, Quorn, Simulate, Daring
We started with chicken. Under the careful supervision of Jessica and Marie, these nuggets were out of the oven in under 15 minutes. Crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, the batch was surprisingly convincing.
Uniform in shape and light in color, Gardein’s nuggets featured visible pieces of oats and quinoa. In contrast, Simulate’s iconic “NUGGS” took on the familiar quality of a fast-food nugget. Daring’s nuggets looked more like strips and Quorn’s were spotted in seasoning.
While Daring and Gardein weren’t bad, Simulate and Quorn made for a spot-on substitute of our favorite childhood snack.
“These are pretty good,” said Marie. “Chicken nuggets were an after-school staple when I was growing up, and these plant-based alternatives take me back to those moments. Sometimes, the best part about food is the feeling it gives you.”
Our favorite: Simulate
Tip: Don’t skip the sauce
Chicken nuggets were an after-school staple when I was growing up, and these plant-based alternatives take me back to those moments. Sometimes, the best part about food is the feeling it gives you.
Marie LaLonde, Copywriter & Strategist
“Seafood”
On the table: Good Catch, Quorn, Sophie's
Next up, seafood. Unlike our first category, it only took a few bites for us to agree that there’s something fishy about fake fish.
“I think these taste a little too much like fish,” said Jessica, returning what was left of her half-eaten fish stick.
“Do I have to finish it?” asked Adam.
Even our guest judges, a pair of curious cats, weren’t impressed. This didn’t come as a surprise—fish hasn’t yet received the degree of research and innovation that has been dedicated to replicating more popular proteins (but, a sea change is coming). Complicated to calibrate and not-so appetizing, we quickly moved on to our final course.
Our favorite: Cat food
Tip: Wait for the next wave
On the table: Good Catch, Quorn, Sophie's
Next up, seafood. Unlike our first category, it only took a few bites for us to agree that there’s something fishy about fake fish.
“I think these taste a little too much like fish,” said Jessica, returning what was left of her half-eaten fish stick.
“Do I have to finish it?” asked Adam.
Even our guest judges, a pair of curious cats, weren’t impressed. This didn’t come as a surprise—fish hasn’t yet received the degree of research and innovation that has been dedicated to replicating more popular proteins (but, a sea change is coming). Complicated to calibrate and not-so appetizing, we quickly moved on to our final course.
Our favorite: Cat food
Tip: Wait for the next wave
I love meat, but our relationship is getting a little complicated. With age comes perspective, and I’ve become more aware of the impact that my decisions make on the world around me. I enjoy a good burger, but I also want my daughters to have a sustainable world to live in.
Adam Weiss, Founder & Executive Creative Director
“Beef”
On the table: 365 by Whole Foods, Amy’s, Beyond Burger, Gardein, Impossible Meat, Incogmeato, Lightlife, Sweetearth, Quorn
Thanks to Frank’s efficient approach to the grill, we tried a lot of patties. While the frozen options were easy to prepare, they lacked the authentic quality of Impossible Meat and Beyond Burger. Topped with lettuce, cheese, and toasted buns, the look of these sandwiches could have fooled even the most dedicated burger lover.
Jessica, who hasn’t eaten a real burger in over a decade, was a little nervous. “These burgers look so real,” she said. “Almost too real.”
As for the taste, we were impressed. Juicy, smokey, and perfectly charred around the edges, Impossible Meat earned a nearly perfect score by every measure.
With a carbon footprint nearly three times greater than that of chicken or fish, beef has captured the attention of scientists, chefs, and start-ups looking to offset its environmental impact—and it shows. From a considered cooking experience to a nearly identical look and feel, Impossible Meat has pioneered a new possibility that’s closing the gap between plant-based meats and their customary counterparts.
Our favorite: Impossible Meat
Tip: Go for the grill
On the table: 365 by Whole Foods, Amy’s, Beyond Burger, Gardein, Impossible Meat, Incogmeato, Lightlife, Sweetearth, Quorn
Thanks to Frank’s efficient approach to the grill, we tried a lot of patties. While the frozen options were easy to prepare, they lacked the authentic quality of Impossible Meat and Beyond Burger. Topped with lettuce, cheese, and toasted buns, the look of these sandwiches could have fooled even the most dedicated burger lover.
Jessica, who hasn’t eaten a real burger in over a decade, was a little nervous. “These burgers look so real,” she said. “Almost too real.”
As for the taste, we were impressed. Juicy, smokey, and perfectly charred around the edges, Impossible Meat earned a nearly perfect score by every measure.
With a carbon footprint nearly three times greater than that of chicken or fish, beef has captured the attention of scientists, chefs, and start-ups looking to offset its environmental impact—and it shows. From a considered cooking experience to a nearly identical look and feel, Impossible Meat has pioneered a new possibility that’s closing the gap between plant-based meats and their customary counterparts.
Our favorite: Impossible Meat
Tip: Go for the grill
There is something inherently fun and indulgent about these foods... these burgers look so real, almost too real...
Jessica Katona, Creative Director
After a lot of eating, we did some thinking about our own eating habits and behaviors.
“I’ll be honest—after eating way too many chicken nuggets and a handful of burgers, I feel bad,” said Adam. “I’m a little disappointed that these options are just as processed as junk food, but I also feel intrigued by the brands and excited for what’s to come.”
“There is something inherently fun and indulgent about these foods,” said Jessica. “Alternative proteins give me a chance to take part in classic cultural traditions without sacrificing my values. A lot has changed since I first became vegan, and I’m optimistic about the future of the food industry.”
“I’m quickly realizing that moving away from meat isn’t nearly as difficult as I once believed,” explained Frank. “With so many options and far less tradeoffs, it feels like it’s easier than ever to make the switch.”
“I’m impressed by how close these options came to the real deal,” said Marie. “While I’d rather get my protein from whole foods like vegetables and beans, I’m excited to have plant-based alternatives that leave my mind and my stomach feeling good.”
“I’ll be honest—after eating way too many chicken nuggets and a handful of burgers, I feel bad,” said Adam. “I’m a little disappointed that these options are just as processed as junk food, but I also feel intrigued by the brands and excited for what’s to come.”
“There is something inherently fun and indulgent about these foods,” said Jessica. “Alternative proteins give me a chance to take part in classic cultural traditions without sacrificing my values. A lot has changed since I first became vegan, and I’m optimistic about the future of the food industry.”
“I’m quickly realizing that moving away from meat isn’t nearly as difficult as I once believed,” explained Frank. “With so many options and far less tradeoffs, it feels like it’s easier than ever to make the switch.”
“I’m impressed by how close these options came to the real deal,” said Marie. “While I’d rather get my protein from whole foods like vegetables and beans, I’m excited to have plant-based alternatives that leave my mind and my stomach feeling good.”
We can all agree that alternative proteins are hard to ignore. As the meatless industry continues to evolve from emerging outlier to established option, these choices will only become more accessible, attractive, and affordable.
Our experiment led us to more than just a good meal and a few laughs—behind every burger is an equally compelling brand shaping an entirely new story.
Hungry for more?
We shared our thoughts on the strategic side of alternative proteins with our friends at Fast Company.
Our experiment led us to more than just a good meal and a few laughs—behind every burger is an equally compelling brand shaping an entirely new story.
Hungry for more?
We shared our thoughts on the strategic side of alternative proteins with our friends at Fast Company.